The Balkans road trip - volume 3
Part three: Maja Medhe, You Problem !!! and departure from Albania.
We wake up into another day, the wind is weakening and the sky is clear. We pack some drink and chocolate wafer :D. We looked out a peak which we’d like to reach so we started our way. Wind took all the snow to kettle holes and lee so there’s only snow left on the ground, which, as the time goes, melts in some lower places. The way is in places breakneck and during that we see a lot of big animal footprints, nearby there flew a helicopter. Around 3 p.m., a bit under the top, we turn round and ride back to our shed, which we reach at sunset around 5 p.m. when it starts to blow a lot. We go to sleeping bags and the evening shift begins. When I warm up our last litre of water at 9 p.m. my brain goes secretly to a trip to another dimension. I woke up around midnight and found out, that there in pan is bubbling last decilitre of water and the gas bomb is almost empty.
The next morning’s plan is to reach the top of the mountain. But 30 seconds after awakening is my rate of fuckness so high, that I suggest a rest day and move the climb to next day. Mára’s reaction is quick and positive, he turns on the side and falls asleep. I move my bed under to sunrise somewhere far away from hotel crap, which started to stink due the heat. I make a moveable shade from a board and a stone and I‘m staring, lying, at surrounding hills and nature. Around midday I’m disturbed by Mára, who has just got up. We melt some snow using last gas, and I’m not able to rest all day, so I go around 3 p.m. to explore new way to climb. Around 5 p.m. I turn round and I’m surprised how far have I got and that the helicoter flew again near me. The downhill, during the sunset, despite the ice crust, is nice. In the evening we have a cold dinner and we go to sleep, the wind starts to blow again strongly by the sunset. In the morning around 7 o’clock we start through the new way a successful climb to „our“ hill. Last 2 km are really exciting wtihout crampons, despite before we go here we knew, we should have buy them. We take the risk, we are lucky and we can enjoy the view to entire Prokljiete mountains, where again moves a helicopter in the distance. Down we firstly go with real respect on ice as a stone, but below it could be called a nice downhill on a softer crust :). We reach the shed before the sunset, because we need to deal with water. I go to search for it to melting troughs by southern base, meanwhile Mára is gathering wood for fire. We’re both successful and soon after that we cook on fire in small tourist pans a bit poisonous evening meal. Stainless plate probably isn’t the best for cooking on fire so the meal has a weird smell, which bends all mucles in your face, but we don’t have much choice.
Next morning the sun is shining again and around 10 a.m. we measure 27°C in the sun. We put our giant bags on our shoulders and „speed up“ to the village, borders, car. Around 5 kilometres ahead of the village, on boarder of a forest and meadows, we see in our week old footprints silhouettes of two people, they traverse on a steep slope in this warn on that slipery sluch, and we go around this part because of avalanche, there was a hard crust a week ago. I deduced that there’re three possibilities who could it be. Czechs, Slovaks or Poles, noone else, in my opinion, can’t be such a fool and be right here right now. We ride closer under that slope, those two are shouting something from above, it’s Albanian. We right to them. When we get under the hill, the two people go downhill towards us, now we find out that they aren’t skiing but walking. They are Sebastian with his father, in gum boots and sweatpants, they’re waist-deep buried in snow and they carry a giant axe. We understand only 3 words from all what they gestikulate: JU (YOU),PROBLEM,POLIS (POLICE), then gestures of sleeping, cold and a helicopter. We’re trying to communicate somehow for a moment, we understand, that they’re looking for us, but we don’t get why are they doing that. Then we go together quite tense to the village, where we must to go with our saviors to local pub (light blue house). Sabastian is the whole way launching petards with expression of great joy after each bang. In the pub there’s really likeable inkeeper – kind of indian grandmother, lately thanks to sophisticated communication we discover that she’s Sebastian’s mother. We have on the table all various drinks and we are given by a very aromatic cheese, which I had to try in the summer, now it’s clear that we will get drunk, because the cheese has to be eaten and there’s no way to do it without some drink, Mára is getting drunk by pepsi, I by beer. We’re sitting here for 2 hour and we’re trying to communicate with a pencil and a sheet of paper using pictures, with increasing time and beer I’m still better in it, of course we’re not alone in the pub and our camera soon goes around the tables, so we can’t take any pictures. Sebastian is trying our skis outside, but without skins he doesn’t want on them downhill. But he offer us to take the skis to the borders by a lorry and he doen’t understand that we don’t consider this deal as a good idea. Finally we stand up, say goodbye, give to Sebastian all our sweets and set off to the borders, but it looks, they chocolate can’t compensate those skis. By the way down, the spring starts, there where was snow a week ago, there are grazing cows and sheeps. But we feel increasinf preasure of what is going to happen at the borders, but nothing happens at all, except a question if we are the same Czech who came around a week ago and if there was cold. We don’t understand at all why were they looking for us, but we’re glad that everything is ok and we don’t ask for anything. Another exciting is when we’re getting closer to the car. Will it stand on logs or on wheels? It’s in one piece and alright, it’s a relief, we go to the nearest village of Gusinje, we buy something in the shop and go camping to water. In the morning we make a serious hygiene after a week of provisional and because according to the forecast it’s going to rain, we set off home. What’s more the last news from our friend Marcel is: „So here in Zlín it’s calamity.“ And we still want to kit, Martinky are the right choice now. The way it made happier by a couple of police stops, which due to the communication barrier long from 5 to 50 seconds. In the evening we’re around 7 p.m. in Hungarian Kiskunhalasz and we go right to the thermals, we pay somethin around 40 crowns and till 9 p.m. we lie in hot pools. After that we degustate a delicious dinner and we’re trying to start up our car, after a few attepmts we push it by hands and with full stomach some time around midnight. At 1 a.m. for the first time we stop the car and I quickly run to fields, at 2:30 for the second time and we swear on that szegen charlatans. From 3 to 4 we must play word soccer to keep attention and after 4 a.m. we camp nearby Turčianské Teplice, above village Čremošné again in the trunk. Next day after 9 o’clock we are in Martinky and we can’t get that calamity, everywhere slush and bilbery.... We put skins up, go down, have a lunch under Střečno and go home, and we’re looking forward after 2 p.m. to missis bed. Despite we didn’t have too good snow all the time, what we were warned about by Kaštánek – so we weren’t surpised, we really enjoyed the trip. I was worried that there won’t be snow at all, but in some places there was more snow than in the Alps, so satisfaction. The difference between north and south slope there was much bigger than by us. Circumstances were still keeping us thinking and fighting with our destiny so we learned a lot of new useful things, so next time we can speculate about some new ones :D
In the end we’d like to say thank you to some specific people, who helped somehow with our travelling. Igor – for skis for the test. They have perfect weight fot events like this!!!My girlfriend Jarča – for processing and immediate sending of green card by mail and permanent weather forecast.Kaštánek – For valuable informations about movement and sleeping in winter nature from his own rich experience, we avoided a lot of mistakes thanks to that.To unknown Hungarian lady from insurance company in the town of Baja – for a possibility of printing the green card on green paper.To our Albanian saviors, 13-years-old Sebastian and his father – for their commitment when searching. To our parents for patience.
Text: Svoby&MaraAlbania volume 1
Albania volume 2